Bonnieux is a commune in the Vaucluse department, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region, 13 km southwest of Apt.
Its vast territory of 51 km² ranges from 153 to 715 m above sea level, the village itself being perched on the northern slope of the Luberon massif, facing west to the city of Lacoste.
Overlooking the Vaucluse mountains to the north, the locality opens to the west onto the Calavon plain, to the east falls under the Claparèdes plateau and to the south already belongs to the Luberon massif.
Covered by agricultural land (50% of its surface area) and forests (44%), Bonnieux appears since Antiquity, located on the Domitian Way linking Italy to the Iberian Peninsula via the Alps. Fortified before the year 1000, the village first came under the county of Forcalquier (12th century), then the county of Provence (13th century) and became a papal possession in the 14th century. This status did not prevent the locality from remaining focused on agricultural production, particularly wine, for centuries.
It was not until the second half of the 20th century that, like its neighbors (Gordes, Roussillon, Lourmarin) and the Luberon in general, Bonnieux became a tourist hotspot. The charms of the old village and its typical landscapes are now coupled with an artisanal and cultural dynamism which make the town, which has nearly 1,200 permanent residents, an unmissable destination in Provence. Without forgetting the Ventoux appellation wines and the truffles which will delight gourmets!
Picturesque and nicely restored, the hilltop village where crowds flock in summer is dominated by its old church (also known as the “high church”). It dates from the 12th century, including a Romanesque part and Gothic chapels. Listed in the Inventory, it notably houses a large 16th century altarpiece, a 17th century high altar, numerous works of art and an 18th century organ. In winter, a traditional nativity scene is set up there. In summer, in addition to services, the building hosts concerts.
Thus begins a discovery of the local heritage... We then take Rue Droite in the shape of a calade (covered with pebbles), lined with old residences, a wheel fountain and remains of ramparts.
On the “east” side, a medieval gate, known as the Castellas gate or even “the Goat gate”, has been preserved. In the rue des Pénitents Blancs, stairs lead to a belvedere.
At the level of the former Récollets convent (17th century, remodeled several times), you can see the chapel where works created especially for the site, by the contemporary artist Louise Bourgeois (1911-2010), are exhibited. Open from July 14 to August 15 and the first half of September. Information on +33 4 90 75 80 54.
Built in 1870 because the other place of worship was not easily accessible for the elderly people of the village, the "new" church displays a neo-Roman style and houses also quality works. Visible are paintings from the 16th century representing scenes from the Passion and paintings by the painter Jorge Soteras (20th century) who resided in Bonnieux.
Also worth mentioning, still in the village, is the Rouville mansion (18th century) which still houses part of the town hall services, without forgetting the remains, here and there, of the old ramparts and towers from the 12th century..
Generally speaking, with regard to housing, we will appreciate the distinction between the tall houses of the perched village and the elongated houses, called "on the ground", in the plain...
In terms of heritage again, you should see the Julien Bridge several kilometers to the north, dating from the 1st century, when the Romans built the Domitian Way and it was necessary to cross the Calavon (the building was in service until 2005!), the priory Saint-Symphorien, to the east, on the road to Buoux, an example of Provençal Romanesque art and renowned for its high 12th century bell tower and finally the Philippe tower, to the south of the town: it dates from 1885, high 30 meters, built in a neo-medieval style by an individual who dreamed of seeing the sea from his home…
Note that around fifteen panels dedicated to the history of the village and its heritage can guide visitors…
As far as cultural leisure is concerned, a Bakery Museum is located in Bonnieux in a building of character. We discover the history of this craft, on a technical but also sociological level. Open on request in July and August. Contact +33 4 90 75 88 34.
Exhibitions, meetings and conferences are scheduled throughout the year at the Maison du livre et de la culture (contact +33 4 90 75 81 30). Also note the cinema screenings and activities offered by the Cinémanouche association (information on +33 6 10 48 31 42).
As for the Blachère foundation, it offers exhibitions and events focused on contemporary African art. Information on +33 4 32 52 06 15.
Then move on to the natural riches of the locality.
The most emblematic site is the Cèdres forest, which covers 250 hectares on Bonnieux (south-west of the village), but also Lacoste and Ménerbes. Planted under Napoleon III in 1862, originally from Morocco, these cedars prove to be sources of shade and…. of serenity: a unique setting that we explore via developed paths, signposted and dotted with information panels.
Another universe in the east of the territory with the Claparèdes plateau where the harsher landscape is also typical due to its numerous dry stone huts which served as shelter for farmers and shepherds.
Without forgetting the vineyard plots, lavender fields and other olive groves: enough to consider hiking or cycling (via specific loops). Maps and information from the tourist office on +33 4 90 75 91 90.
You may prefer horseback riding to explore this treasure of the Luberon: contact the Ecuries de Meille on +33 6 99 54 01 37.
A break will also be welcome in the garden of La Louve. Created in 1986 by Nicole de Vésian, it covers 1800 m² and is intended to be a work of art in itself, a mixture of stones and pruned scrubland plants (boxwood, laurel, thyme, etc.). The contemporary-looking space includes benches and areas dedicated to meditation. Labeled Remarkable Garden, the site is open to the public on Thursday afternoons from April to October (except in August) and by appointment for groups. Price: 10 euros. Information on +33 6 26 41 41 00.
Every Friday morning, colorful and fragrant local market typical of Provence.
In May, Bonnieux Ceramics: pottery market. Around forty potters from France and Europe are present, who share with the public the passion for their profession, as well as their different techniques: sculptures, tableware, jewelry, in stoneware, porcelain, earthenware or raku. Over the two days, demonstrations of turning large parts, as well as a modeling and turning workshop for children.
The last Sunday in June, garage sales.
In mid-August over four days, votive festival with fairground attractions, fun and gourmet activities, balls.
The second weekend of October, harvest festival.
From the end of November to the end of January, installation of the traditional nativity scene in the upper church (reconstruction with the figurines of daily life in the 19th century).
